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July 04, 2007

Post-Samaria - food at Agia Rameli, a peek at Loutro and waiting for the bus at Chora Sfakion

When you finish trekking the Samaria gorge you end up on the South coast of Crete in a small village called Agia Rameli. There really isn't much there except a broken-up church, an abandoned old castle on the hill, some tavernas to cater for the tourists, and the ferry port out of there.


The long walk had impaired our collective decision making facilities, not least of which when we ignored the couple of cafes at the foot of the gorge to press on ahead to do the extra half-hour walk to get to the village before stopping. After some dithering in Agia Rameli we plumped for the busiest and biggest looking taverna.

I had one of the most welcome pints of beer I've ever had, whilst the more sensible amongst us stuck to fresh orange juice.


Sadly, the orange juice didn't come in a boot as advertised, as that would have been the photo opportunity of K. and I.'s visit.


After a hearty meal we went and found the ferry. For some reason I had visions that this would be a small wooden fishing vessel filled to the brim, but actually it was a modern ship. Although, shockingly, it didn't have any catering facilities open.


Actually it didn't matter much, because our my initial outrage at not being able to buy beer on the boat turned to zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzs as we were lulled to sleep by the sun and the waves.

It takes about 45 minutes for the ferry to pootle around from Agia Rameli to Chora Sfakion, via the exclusive isolated car-less resort of Loutro.

There wasn't much at Chora Sfakion, except a place to buy ice creams and the bus stop. Two KTEL buses came to do the run to Chania, and it was still a bit touch'n'go whether we would get onto one or not because of the crowd of people waiting. We dashed over and squeezed on the less popular, older bus - which we soon found out didn't have any air conditioning. This didn't make for the most pleasant of trips home.

The route we followed was the same one that Claire and I took on the last day of our road trip, to Chania via Vryses and the Imbros Gorge. The road up alongside the Imbros Gorge was even more terrifying by bus. I was in the window seat on the edge, and since I was higher up than I would have been in a car, for a lot of the time I couldn't see the road at all - just a sheer drop into the valley below. Nice.

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I think that your 'most welcome pints of beer' went straight to your head! You started seeing boots of orange juice, when all there was was a glass next to an orange and a lemon. Maybe all that exercise made you delirious...

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